Edwardian Hat Tutorial Part 2

First things first: So I might have fibbed just a little... I finished the hat and I will be doing the second tutorial now... however! It just shows you how to get to a covered hat frame. It is not going to be decorated. I will post the decorated hat once I get paid and can afford the netting I want to put on it with the feathers I also have waiting for it. :D So I guess technically this will be a three parter... in a sense. I will post the finished hat as well as answer any questions that happen to come through either on here or on the various forums this is linked to.

OK, so when I left you last you had three pieces to your hat, the brim covered in wire, the crown top covered in a swirl of wire and the crown sides lined in wire.

Its time to get out your Millinery Needles because you are going to be doing some hand sewing. I would say that the cover of the hat is done half and half. The top is hand sewn and the brim is machine sewn.

This is how I covered my hat... the directions are different but I like the way I did it and I am happy with the results.

I started with the very top of the crown, I cut out a square of the fabric I am using (black silk) that was roughly two inches bigger than the circle.
I then started pinning and tucking the fabric in a circle, I did NOT cut the extra fabric, the reason for this will become apparent later.

This is what mine looked like once I pinned it all down.

I think did the crown band. I cut down my crown by 2". I took the fabric and folded it over the band and cut. :D

I then sewed the top of the crown on to the band. Like this!
I hand sewed the top of the crown to the band. I used tiny stitches. Not sure if you can see it. :D


I then took the top of the brim and laid it on top of the silk and cut out a square the same way I did the top of the crown.

After a quick run over with the iron...
I then rounded the edges so that it would be a bit easier to work with.

I picked a section and started pinning just like the crown.
Now its time for the center...

I cut the center and pinned it back like this:

I then sewed both the inner brim and the outer edge of the brim on the sewing machine.
** When you are sewing a hat covered in wires with fabric over it where you can't see said wires GO SLOW! If your needle hits a wire whilst going slow it will stop, if you hit a wire while going full speed the needle will most likely break and fly at you.

like so:
The top of the brim will look like this:
I know it doesn't look like much but when its done it will look great.
So now its time for the inside lining.
You are going to actually use the pattern for this step. (Shocking I know) lol
http://www.costumes.org/advice/costcraftsmanual/images/08.jpg
Using the lining pattern you are going to draw it out with chalk onto the fabric (love chalk!)
Then cut it out... ;D
Now you will need to sew to edges together... (do'nt sew the top or the bottom edge only the side and only one)
Next you will run gathering stitches along the side that is NOT even. :D So the straight edge will go along the edge of the brim farthest away from the crown... The gathering stitch will be two rows of basting stitches... like this:

Next you will pin the straight edge to the outer edge of the brim like this!
Once you get it all pinned in place you are going to gather it up. :D


When its done it will look like this! (pinned that is... )


I think sewed both the inner brim edge and the outer edge on the sewing machine.
So now that the brim is in tack I went back to the crown and "Frankensteined" the inside. Its not pretty so you are so warned. :D
Now that the brim and the crown are done its time to sew them together. I just pinned the top onto the brim eyeballing it until I liked where it sat. I then started sewing it taking stitches from the bottom through the crown.
Once it is all sew down you are finished! :D
And it looks like this!!! :D

Well, that's it for now. I hope you can follow my instructions and that you can create your own beautiful hats. Please feel free to ask any questions you might have I'm willing to answer whatever I can. :D

I think I should get points for finishing this blog early! Since I gave myself until Monday to finish this. :D

~Eliza

Comments

christine said…
Dear Eliza, I had find the pattern for Tara Macginnis and intended to attempt my first hat for my 9 year old daughter who is doing the titanic project at school ( she is supposed to be a rich lady- so the hat should make the costumes. Then I found your blog which is perfect.very well explained and as the material I am using is closer to silk than velvet as used by Tara it look that covering each pieces of the crown separately separately give a better finish. I noticed you did also skip the felt covering of the buckram.Id that not necessary. I was going to get a bit of stick on felt which should give a smooth finish. Did you ever decorate the hat? we got some cheap feathers ribbon and organza from which I intend to make some loose roses which should do the trick. I always like a challenge! Thanks for all the info and hope the hat will turn out as good as yours Christine
Miss Eliza said…
Christine,

I appologize for the long lapse in reply. I haven't checked my blog in quite some time. But as I am doing yet another hat tutorial I was going through my dashboard and saw your comment. I am very glad that my tutorial helped you. :D I did indeed decorate the hat it came out lovely though I haven't had an opportunity to wear it yet as the dress that accompanies the hat is still not done. :D I have included some links so that you can see how I decorated my hat.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/483316_10150908820572219_594870877_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/417229_10150526543382219_445329644_n.jpg

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